In the summer of 2023, I set out on a trip which would take me through Croatia, Montenegro and Albania before departuring from Corfu, Greece. These are the stops I made while traveling through Croatia.
Zagreb
Zagreb was the natural place for me to fly into as it has the largest airport in the country. I stayed here for two nights before I travelled south to Split on an evening bus. A lot of the sights I wanted to see while in the city was sadly being renovated, but with two days I covered all the sights in a relaxed manner.
Out of the places I got to see while on my short stay in Zagreb, these two were my favorites. I had managed to hype them up for myself and they did not disappoint.
The Zagreb Funicular
It was opened in 1890 and is holding the title for shortest funicular in the world. The ride is less than a minute and as short as 66 meters. If you do not want to wait for the funicular there is also the option of walking to the other end of it.
Tunel Gric
Built in 1943 as a bomb shelter and air raid shelter during World War II, it now serves as a pedestrian tunnel. Even if it is hot outside in the summer this tunnel will let you cool down while you are in it. Which is why it became my favorite spot of my stay.
The bus I originally wanted to take to Split was full and I would have to wait a day or depart earlier. As I already had a booking for after Split, I left earlier in the evening and arrived in Split in the middle of the night.
Split
Split is a coastal city and is the second largest city in Croatia. From here you can board a ferry and travel to most places along the coast within the country. It is also a popular port for cruise ships to stop at. That was also the reason I was in this town for a very short stop. I had about 9 hours here before I had to leave on the ferry, but my hotel was central and I woke up early to see just a bit more.
Diocletian´s Palace
Is a UNESCO world heritage site that has history all the way back to 305 AD and is the heart of Split.
Surrounding this historical area is Split´s old town with a lot of great arcitecture and cute shops.
I highly recommend taking the stairs up the tower for a breathtaking view of not only Diocletian´s Palace, but the whole of Split.
If climbing up a tower is not your thing it is also full of opportunities at the old town, such as getting lost in the street or forgetting you just ate as you come across a new restaurant with the most amazing smells. There is also a Game of Thrones museum that you can visit.
I also highly recommend a promenade along the West bank. If no other reasons than a good view and a close up look at all the expensive yachts residing there. Right behind is Telegrin Peak with a wonderful view over the whole of Split.
My time in Split ended as soon as it started. My tenth hour was spent getting my suitcase and going to the ferry I previously had checked which harbour it goes from. Next stop is Viganj or as the ferry stops, Korcula.
Viganj and Korcula
When you arrive at Korcula you can easily take the ferry across the sea channel before arriving in Orebic. The ferries goes more frequently in the summer, but there is also an option for taking a boat taxi. My Airbnb was inbetween these two small villages and thus I took a water taxi for about 25 EUR to arrive in Kuciste. The areas are remote here and you will very much need a car.
I arrived in the evening, not long before it got dark, so I did not have much plans for the night. The owner of the apartment building was very friendly and helped me in all possible ways. The morning after she drove me to Orebic to rent a scooter which I used for the next three days to zoom around on. When I returned the scooter the apartment owner had returned home, but her mother was still there and helped me back to the apartment to get my suitcase and back to the ferry terminal to continue my journey.
Viganj is a breathtaking visual and it was amazing driving between the small villages and vineries there. It is one of the places in Europe that is amazing for windsurfing and kitesurfing. Which was the reason I decided to go to Viganj in the first place, sadly for me all three days no kitesurfing happened.
The tradgedy of my kiteboarding vacation:
Day 1: As soon as I got my scooter I drove to Viganj to sign up for the day, it had wind, but they registered me for Windsurfing instead of kiteboarding. I decided to try while I waited for my turn. They take a boat out and sadly one of them broke down, meaning the already long list just got longer. I made other plans.
Day 2: No wind, simple as that.
Day 3: I noticed some wind and checked the weather forecast, but when I called them they said it was too early and they would call me back if the wind picked up. Which it did, but I never got the call and I did had already gone on an adventure. It also picked up to the degree of too much wind for me as a novice to kiteboard later in the day.
Here are my alternatives if you are as unfortunate as me with the wind (if kiteboarding is your goal for your stay that is):
Day 1
Despite no wind, Viganj is an adorable and picturesque village to visit. I did not stay for long as I decided to hit the road. The viewpoint while driving towards Loviste was amazing as was the drive through Mediterranean vegetation.
It is possible for hiking trips here and if you are driving a camper it is possible to stay in Loviste.
Loviste is small and I only walked around for about 30 minutes before I got lunch and drove back the same way I came from. Unless you have a boat, there is only one road that connects to Loviste. The rest of the day I spent shopping groceries and swimming outside the apartment rental in the sea.
Day 2
in the morning I headed to Viganj and was told there was no wind, so I left my number in case it would pick up and stayed rather close for the next hour before venturing out.
I set out on a mission to see more of the island and aimed for some wineries. I passed through the beautiful wineries and sadly turned around right before Trpanj as I started to notice how much fuel my scooter had used going up and down the hillsides and a few detours due to my own curiousity. Tanked it up in Orebic, went to the beach and relaxed out the evening.
Day 3 – Korcula
This was by far my favorite place in the whole of Croatia.
I called the kiteboarding place as soon as they opened to confirm if it was enough wind, but it was not so I decided rather fast that I would go to Korcula for the day. I have no regret about this decision even if the wind did pick up in the evening.
Korcula is said to be the birthing place for Marco Polo, but when I was there the house he was born in was under construction and was set to open a month later. Even so, the arcitecture and food there was amazing.
The ferry from Orebic to Korcula took about 20 minutes and it was a place to park right infront of the harbour. Right by is also a tourist center that sells the ferry tickets and you can buy it on the day itself.
It is very difficult not to pass by where Marco Polo was once born as it sits high and in the center of the town. Sitting in front of here resting you will see a lot of different tour groups passing by, I was surprised that there was Danish tour group there at one point. I took the opportunity to listen in to what was being said and learn a bit more about the history surrounding the building. I do not remember much as I was distracted by this cute little black cat just relaxing in the shadow, until the people on the tour asked about it. The guide says it is a stray that stays around here and the locals have named him Marco.
The day prior I had reserved a booking for visiting Korta Katarina and Winery for a wine tasting. I also learned you can stay at the villa there, but the price was over 7000 Euros a night, making me afraid of the area I entered.
The wine was amazing with a great view over the wineyard that is located right by the sea. I do not like red wine, but the one I tried there is the first one I have truly liked. The sommeliers there are very skilled and helpful, and I highly recommend taking a tour here.
Dubrovnik
After returning the scooter in the morning and picking up my luggage I waved goodbye to the nice grandmother. Who did not speak English and me not speaking Croatian it became a rather short goodbye, but still thankful for her helping me out.
To get to Dubrovnik there are several different ways, I went by ferry which departed from Korcula. It takes about 2,5 hours to Dubrovnik from Korcula, but I also had to wait an hour for the ferry after crossing the sea channel.
Dubrovnik is known for their old town and city wall. This is the two must visit spots when you are in Dubrovnik. You can pay to walk around the city wall, either the whole or just part of it. I do however recommend walking the whole way to the end. Then you will discover the most beautifully placed basketball court, though after decending the wall it is quite the height you will have to walk to reach it. But hey, cardio and warm up done and you are ready to play ball.
Another option is to join one of the kayak tours that are located right outside of Dubrovnik old town.
Outside the wall you can find Fort Lovrijenac which is just a short walk away from the old town.
The fort was built in the early 11th centry and is also known as Gibraltar of Dubrovnik and was one of the key buildings in defense from invaders. Now it is open for tourism and used for performances. Though one of it´s recently most famous usages has to be Game of Thrones.
From the Pile gate entrance to Dubrovnik old town you can walk down towards the sea to get to Fort Lovrijenac. It is also here the kayaking tours are to be found along with other touring information.
Leaving Dubrovnik with fond memories and a funny story from the hostel I stayed at. Next stop on my Balkan trip is budva, Montenegro. If you want to hear about what to see and do in Budva follow the link and explore the town with me.
Rover Saga 